What People Are Saying

Vermont Best Bargains 2010
Editors' Choice, Yankee Magazine, Best of New England
Credit: Erick Ingraham

Real Bistro Prices

TIP TOP CAFE, White River Junction

The word "bistro" has been so abused it might as well be dropped from the English language--except that every once in a while, a place comes along that epitomizes the concept, with simple but creative food (such as orange-infused salmon and ginger-and-pork meatloaf), candlelit table service, and reasonable weeknight date prices. Entrees: under $20, most under $15. 85 North Main St. 802-295-3312; tiptopcafevermont.com 

BEST DINING EXPERIENCE IN YEARS! TIP TOP IS THE TOPS
Reviewed by LAKR on July 18, 2009
A birthday dinner, so the expectations were high - something memorable, hopefully, right? IT WAS! Leaning towards vegetarian that night was easy given the chef's delightfully unique and scrumptious approach. There were fish and fowl and beef options, of course, and I dare say they were probably wonderful, but imagine our surprise to find such a unique array of choices with fresh ingredients. The service was superb - not the cloying, "hi, I'm Alex and I'll be your server tonight" kissing up, but a informed, gracious, attentive, quiet service that did not interrupt our conversations to feature the waitstaff on center stage every time they come to the table. Great atmosphere, outstanding work by the chef, and superb service made this one of the best dining experiences I've had in years, despite having dined at a much-touted restaurant northward on I-89 only 2 months earlier  Kudos to the TIP TOP CAFE! TOPS IN MY BOOK

Tip Top Cafe
Published in 7 Nights 2008-2009

Anyone who thinks of White River Junction as a place to hop off the highway for a bathroom break and a quick burger hasn't been there lately. Over the past decade, the old railroad town at the intersection of interstates 89 and 91 has experienced a renaissance. A theater company, a cartoon-art school and a tapas bar have all taken up residence in this burg that's seeing better days.


The Tip Top building, an arts complex in the center of town, typifies the trend: It houses 40-some artists' studios, a gallery and the sophisticated Tip Top Café, which bills itself as "an upbeat American bistro." Contemporary decor, large white serving dishes and sleek, bullet-shaped salt and pepper shakers give it the feel of an urban museum café.


But here it's the chef's creativity that's on display, starting with Tip Top's starters: A pair of sea-monster-sized prawns with sweet 'n' tangy dipping sauce command attention, as does the grilled Caesar salad — long leaves of romaine with a hint of char, topped with crouton bits, dressing and Parmesan. Grill time imparts a tantalizing smoky flavor. For cocktails to wash it down, there's no better "Black Martini" in the Upper Valley.
Even Tip Top's traditional entrées have novel twists: Take the steak, seared dark on the outside but juicy rare within, served on a bed of mashed potatoes topped with crisp strips of fried leek and surrounded by a puddle of paprika-cream sauce. A glass of Syrah is a perfect complement.


Another clever concoction from Chef Eric Hartling: a Vermont version of risotto that blends the creamy rice with cheddar and strews it with bits of thick-cut bacon and tender cubes of butternut squash. A drizzle of apple-cider-reduction sauce sasses it up.


Are these destination dishes? Only one way to find out. Tip Top is proving that the "creative economy" tastes damn good.